Over the past month, there's been much buzz going around about 27 Restaurant, the new eating place and hot spot at The Freehand Miami. I have to admit, after three failed attempts at making dinner reservations and getting "sorry, we are packed" for an answer, I was starting to get a bit frustrated. So as soon word got out about their brunch menu debut, I made it a point to beat the crowds and get there bright and early, in order to finally get my hands on their food.
As soon as I walked in, I understood what the fuzz was all about: the place is gorgeous! The decor is a mix of boho cottage and granny chic, giving you a nice homey feeling the moment you come in. The vibe is chill but classy, and fellow diners looked like the fabulous, effortlessly good looking kind that you would find at Soho Beach House or The Standard.
The menu is an interesting combination of Latin, Jewish and American comfort food, with options ranging from a Colombian Bandeja Paisa to Latkes Benedict and Cinnamon Buns. But first things first. If you are going to the restaurant from the owners of The Broken Shaker, you MUST order some cocktails. That's what they are known for, after all!
In my case, I went for the Miso Honey Cold Brew ($11), which combined Panther Coffee's famous cold brew with a miso honey reduction, local coconuts and Averna amaro. The result was just as delicious as it looks in the picture below. My only warning is that it is initially VERY sweet, but if you mix it well and let the ice melt a bit, it is just perfection.
Now, about the food. Given that I'm a HUGE fan of The Broken Shaker, I had high expectations for its new restaurant. Unfortunately, I hate to say that it was just OK for me. I really wish it was just as great as the drinks, the decor and the ambiance, but it wasn't anything amazing, IMHO. Here's the breakdown of what I tried:
Lets start with the positive: Bubbie's Latkes ($6), probably the best dish in the menu, consisted of two crispy potato pancakes, served with a homemade sour cream and apple relish dipping sauce. Despite their small size, the little Latkes were quite tasty and something that I would definitely recommend. My only suggestion is to get two orders, as they won't last long!
When I read about 27's Tres Leches French Toast ($10) in the Miami New Times, I was immediately sold on it. Unfortunately, the dish sounded awesome in theory, but in practice, it just didn't work. It was way too sweet! :( The tres leches sauce on the toast was too overpowering, and competed with the also incredibly sweet caramelized fruit it was served with. Even for a tres leches fan like myself, this was way too much. You may want to skip this one, unless you have a huge sweet tooth.
The MacShaker was pretty simple, and consisted of an egg mcmuffin with bourbon mustard and a small burger inside. It's a tasty option, sure. The mustard gives it a nice touch. But its so small!!! 1,2,3, bites, and it's gone! For $14, I would have expected something a bit more substantial. Like the Latkes, if you are hungry, I would suggest getting two.
Maybe it's too early to judge 27's brunch. After all, it sometimes takes time for a restaurant to perfect its menu, and I literally tried it on its first day.
However, I have to admit that I expected more from this place, because lets face it: we are talking about The Broken Shaker here! I am not giving up on it, though. The place is beautiful, the vibe is right, and with a few tweaks here and there (less sugar, and larger portions), it can definitely have potential.
My suggestion: give them a few months to figure out the menu before trying them, and in the meantime, stick to the drinks and snacks from the Broken Shaker. Those never disappoint!
27 Restaurant: 2727 Indian Creek Dr, Miami Beach.